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COVER STORY
Mushroom purveyor Yoshinobu Odaira, founder of Shogun Maitake Canada
Mushroom purveyor Yoshinobu Odaira, founder of Shogun Maitake Canada
ERIC ROCKBURN/RED BUTTON PHOTOGRAPHY

Home grown

Costco warehouses are known for their selection of national brand-name products, but they also stock locally produced items that might be offered in only a few provinces or a handful of warehouses. These items help Costco buyers respond to local and regional tastes, and help set Costco apart from its competitors.

Stories by Mark Cardwell, Sharon Chisvin, Naomi Hansen, Dan Jones, Allison Lawlor, Dana Tye Rally

Locally sourced products not only cater to local tastes, they also help to create a feeling of hometown pride in warehouses across the country. Over the next few pages, we'll introduce you to some of the small-scale regional suppliers whose goods add to your Costco warehouse's "treasure hunt" feel—from candy to honey and mushrooms to coffee beans and more. —Stephanie E. Ponder

SHOGUN MAITAKE CANADA CO. LTD.

Location London, Ontario
Products Shogun Maitake Kuro Organic Mushrooms (Item 1595888)
Availability The Maritimes, Ontario, Quebec

Maitake means "dancing mushroom" in Japanese, because in ancient times those lucky enough to find these rare mushrooms—prized for their rich, intense taste, desirable texture and nutritional value—would celebrate with a dance, says Noriko Kurokawa, executive officer of Shogun Maitake Canada Co. Ltd. "These are highly sought after," Kurokawa adds: 1 kilogram found in the wild can fetch up to $1,000.

It took Shogun Maitake founder, CEO and president Yoshinobu Odaira years of tireless experimentation to achieve consistent production of Kuro maitakes just like the wild ones found in the mountains of northeastern Japan. He founded his first business, Yukiguni, in 1983 to grow and develop new proteins for the Japanese market. His steady production of black maitakes led to the creation of a facility in Japan—where his business eventually claimed 70% of the market—and two years of cultivation research in Canada.

Odaira moved from Japan to Canada in hopes of bringing the mushrooms' many health benefits to North America. Shogun Maitake Canada was formed in 2015. The London, Ontario–based company began supplying Costco organic black maitakes in November 2021. "This is [Odaira's] passion," Kurokawa says.

One maitake weighs an average of 600 grams (1.3 pounds), and each one takes 100 days from inoculation to harvest in a carefully controlled environment that mirrors a cycle of seasons. The company, made up of 18 employees, grows a total of 10,886 kilograms (12 tons) per month. Their mushrooms are cultivated free of pesticides and chemicals, using state-of-the-art technology to replicate natural conditions.

"We have to control temperature, humidity, ventilation and water," Kurokawa says. "It's a very sensitive and precise environment." —Dan Jones

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